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More MkII Lawgivers !

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I thought I will post a build log of a kit I bought from SD studios. I recently got proposed to provide a new version of a Lawgiver version of my Blaster Core sound board.
That build log is meant to serve as a visual guide for the install of the electronics, for those who will do it themselves.

[To see the pictures below in full size, right click on it then select "display picture"]

Mine has a few little variants from what SD has proposed for his fully built LG but overall, the principles remain the same. The main difference is that I used a model gun as I wanted a display piece with realistic looking bullets. I know, it's a pain to load and clean but I don't expect to use PFC aside of a couple of demos. Another LG with an airsoft is planned too anyway (see at the end !)


So... I started that project when the kit was first sold, then paused  cause I didn't have a place to spray paint... back at work on it again. I  finished blaster core v4 3 weeks ago and had the plan to port the LG  firmware on it, and things converged pretty fast in the past 2 weeks, after tuning specs with SD studios.

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Long tribulations to source a beretta M9 model gun to France, what a mess. I ended up in japan with semi ghost company and couldn't get the shells, then sourced the shells in the UK but now I'm almost sure they are too short. Designed for a M84, juuuust a bit shorter, the new PFC won't bang properly as they don't perforate, so they bang, blow back but no smoke and no sound LOL
[actually leaves some expression possibilities for the BC4]

Recent pics of stuff I did a year ago (already ? really ?)

►Satin paint job is decent but perfectible







►Ammo clip in place with foot part


►Threaded holes for slide attachment


►Adding the greebly on the reload mechanism. Per discussion with SD, a 2 pin system was a good solution (and JB weld)




►Glued !



►Still have to paint the second half of the gun. To protect the silver area, I used Mecanorma tape, old school PCB design technique to protect what you don't want to etch. Good tack, removable residues (very little) and paint/water proof.


►Then maskol (latex paint) to seal thin tape with blue painter's tape and ready to go !



►Another view


►Mag release greeblie. Threading both sides and giving a clean shave cut to the knob with the lathe.





►4mm M3 set screw is perfect for the job


►Done


►Lever after 2 coats of silver with the airbrush (I keep practicing) : invisible pins (almost... the camera sees them but I don't)





I finished the paint job on the remain half. As I'm not sure of the paint I used for the 1st one, I took the risk to add one extra coat of satin black to ensure "color" (if I can say so) and mosly gloss level are the same.



Some progress.

right side shell was too thick for my model gun slide. That's the last trimming required to have the kit fitting that very gun (very few mods, really, just dremelling here and there)



installing clear styrene backing so that I have something to glue the leds on later.


Installing some wires, checking length


Speaker install - to be tested but the eye piece could provide a small rear resonant chamber


Hall effect sensor that I'll use for the main trigger and ammo clip detection


Experimenting with dyed resin for the red windows (SD idea). Didn't find the right pigment but that glass stain / paint seems perfect. It's solvent based so it should mix well with the glazing resin




First test is too weak, second one is good but the color pigments have "migrated" in the corners. Still, the shade starts to be nice



Side leds. White SMD leds, low profile enough to fit under the gun even with the PCB.
Those white leds have a large beam with the additive that produces the white light. The whole yellow area becomes white with a large angle.



and they are SUPER BRIGHT (even at 10mA)




diffusion test with 7-segment display filter
as expected, too close = beam / spot


at a few mm of distance, you start diffusing.


Assembling some side panels PCBs for those leds


let's start the assembly / wiring. I frosted the clear styrene backing with 240 grit sandpaper to improve initial diffusion. I also inclined the PCBs to avoid a direct light beaming thru the windows. Board is secured with double sided foam tape. You'll notice the flashing PCB extension so that I can keep working on the firmware without disassembling anything.


tidy wiring  :045:


with the gun installed


Rear lights. Assembled on some perf-board that I also use to install the hall effect sensor of the trigger (those are part of my customization, SDS full builds will use switches which isn't worse or anything). I just love those sensors, but they for sure complicate the install an require some more wires to be routed.


Made some more space on the trigger mechanism, as the magnetic sensor a the perf-board + wires were eating up a couple of precious mm.
I also drilled the rod to install the magnet.



Second panel on the left half of the gun



I made the install at 99% on the right side of the gun. This way it's easy to disassemble.
The aux. switch (ammo selection) is at the top of the grip. The magazine sensor is also a magnetic sensor with a small magnet installed in a recessed area of the mag. It will be painted "gun metal" later to have it merely invisible.
To activate the aux. switch, you just need to squeeze the handle in a certain way.





Almost there. Missing the red windows. Off to the hobby shop today to find some alcohol based inks to dye the resin.


The bullet view with the slide locked is what made me choose the model gun for that prop.


lights




Battery setup. Works for both 9V battery and 2 x li-ion cells (14500)


switch isn't final, not happy with the placement of this one, I'll fix this today


I started toying a bit with high speed photography and I figured a LG model gun would be nice to picture :love

here what I got during the lunch break (please excuse the mess of the white paper background, other experiment have been going on, and a few spills :lol)
















and part of the photo shoot,
here's The Anti-causal Matrix Oracle tomato (don't ask me, I don't how why or how...)



and the olympic diver tomato


After someone on the RPF mentioned the dolphin an full auto beretta, I search again to acquire one as I wanted to keep a PFC gun to play with and for display.

I kind of regret I didn't know more about model guns / PFC guns when I started the lawgiver project otherwise it's THAT GUN I would had put inside. I suspect my first marushin was not brand new and I had my problems with the receivers and I suspect the slide spring is tired, it's ok for my LG.

This is the Phrobis M9 (aka "dolphin"). This one as a single / full auto selector. Damn nice  !








a little video of the full auto mode, it's fast !

Phrobis (aka "dolphin") Beretta Model gun - YouTube


Sept 2012 - UPDATE
I decided it was time to assembly my second SD studio LG so that I can bring it to the FACTS 2012 con. in October. This one is the full auto version using an airsoft gun (all metal).
SD studio paint job is awesome, flat black with textured grip (slightly satin, different black paint).

The red resin was slightly too transparent, still too much flaring even with the paper diffuser. So I used PU milky resin, very good diffuser.
 Some plastiline to make the border, mix, pour, usable 10 minutes later.

The trigger switch will not be using a magnet on that one, as the transfer bar is a piece of ... on that gun (cigarette paper) and it easily slips out of the slide rail too. So I'm mounting the switch on the gun itself with a tiny limit switch, which as a registration pin which is great to stabilize it mechanically even when you press the trigger a lot of times, it's not supposed to be pushed back [same as SD installs I believe]


marked the limit of the transfer bar with a scribe. The bar is actually making a small arc in the move, so the switch won't be totally lined up but slightly angle to receive the final punch of the mechanism which matches the moment when the hammer goes.


PU resin as a diffuser for the rear leds
 

I hate to mod a gun permanently. I drilled an tapped the fire selector to ensure it will stay in full auto BUT I can remove the set screw to put it back to semi auto.
 

Lining up the trigger switch wires
 

DNA recognition switch and mag detector installed on the rubber grip this time, so that almost nothing is attached to the gun at the end (aside the trigger switch). Another good tip from SD.


Quick M3 milling in the mag (no, without piercing the air tank) to host the magnet, totally flush with the gun magazine. I'll paint it gun metal with the airbrush later


Video :
Second Lawgiver MkII (SD studio casts) - YouTube

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