Special thanks and credits to Judge Sabersmith for helping on the design of this one. When I started the project, I had no CF in hands (that happens, believe me) and I decided to make a saber with "what I had in the fridge".
I found out that the MR 616 joe jedi could be a nice base for the starkiller, especially since I finally saw no reason to keep it in my saber collection.. Problem, I didn't want to get many overlays when using it as the main tube (JSS used a 1.25" one), so I chose to carv it to do the little grooves and rings. Second problem, there are those $*ù^ lining grooves for the changeable shrouds, clamps and grip sections. I filled them with some good aluminium added epoxy from loctite, I wasn't sure JBWELD will stick properly.
So far so good. I "opened" the crystal chamber with the mill.
For the blade holder, I had a old anakin conversion kit. But I had to shorten it
► [3 months after]
I decided to try to PC the parts, that's only my second job on it and it went great. I used the flat black and super copper from PBTP. Hot coating made it GAME. As expected the aluminium epoxy slightly shrinked so the grooves of the main tube are still there just a bit like a ghost line, but that's ok, the saber isn't supposed to be "clean"
PC was not just for experimenting. I wanted to have some "age resistant weathering" (tm ? ). PC is really hard, and the great thing, it's solvent resistant. Makes weathering harder but when it's done, it's done, no chiping paint.
WIP pictures. I appologize, I don't have access to my SLR right now, creepy cellphone pics. Still working on the outside, I need to make the control box and the rabbit ears. Then I'll finally move to the chassis to hold the MR616 board and speaker.
I was thinking about PC in copper the central rod that fakes holding the crystal. Too much brass kills the brass, I thought a little copper reminder in the crystal chamber could be nice. Maybe not.
99% done. Might have to rework / add some more weathering (I'm not good at that).
the chassis I hadn't posted. Crappy PVC but it worked after some sanding.
The powder coating, as expected, is really hard. Weathering required some steel files and a hobby knife, sand paper just makes the PC go muhahahaha. I kept a simple and top side on/off switch, so it's not a bottom activator but well... it still works. Gluing the grips was not easy at all, but it ended well. I added some screw to ensure they don't go off to fast.
The tiny kill key looks a bit ridiculous but I love it anyway. The recharge port is nicely hidden in the pommel, it's a plus since I'm having holes in the MR pommel, so saving a visible and big recharge port it nice.